Shah Jiwana, Pakistan (AFP) – Rhythmic drums and energetic dance are reviving Sufi saint sites, whose festivals had previously been suppressed by militant bloodshed.
As the harvest season concludes and schools close for the summer, villagers board tractor trolleys, buses, and rickshaws to attend the yearly celebrations at Sufi shrines throughout the country.
“Those who cannot meet during the rest of the year reunite at the fair,” said Muhammad Nawaz, a farmer from Punjab province, speaking at the annual “mela” to honor saint Shah Jiwana in Jhang city in May.
“These fairs and Punjab’s culture share a profound connection, one of love and brotherhood.”
Fairgrounds, musicians, traditional wrestlers, and motorbike acrobats entertain pilgrims as lanterns of various colors illuminate the scene, while hundreds of police officers keep a close check on everything.
Millions of people follow centuries-old Sufi organizations all over the Islamic world, from Turkey to South Asia, and their beliefs are based on mysticism and sainthood.
Many orthodox hardliners see Sufi practices as heretical, and terrorist groups like the Pakistani Taliban and Islamic State have carried out bloody attacks on shrines and festivals.
Until recently, authorities in Pakistan had banned or limited festive festivities in response to the attacks. “The goal was to avoid risking public lives,” said Alloudin Mehmood, a government official at Islamabad’s Bari Imam shrine, which was targeted by a 2005 suicide attack that killed 19 people.
Following multiple military operations, security has significantly improved, allowing celebrations to resume gradually. “Only after receiving security clearance was the festival permitted last year, ending a 16-year hiatus,” Mehmood stated.
The event was reduced from five to three days, with mobile phone signals turned off for security reasons.
‘Culture is resilient.’
Thousands of Sufi shrines dot the landscape of rural Pakistan, ranging in size from majestic edifices to small structures, each with its own tapestry of legends.
Saints, also known as “Pirs,” are highly adored in Punjab and Sindh, and miracles have been attributed to their spiritual presence. “These shrines have endured threats and persecution,” said anthropologist and author Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro.
“Culture always has a remarkable resilience, capable of absorbing shocks and persevering through challenging times.” The annual ceremonies celebrate a saint’s death anniversary and represent believers’ spiritual oneness with the almighty.
“Pilgrims find solace, healing, release, and entertainment at these events that celebrate the ‘friends of God’,” remarked Carl W. Ernst, author of several Sufi books.
Sufism has influenced many of Pakistan’s most popular artists, writers, and musicians. Sufi shrines frequently attract marginalized people, such as transgender women and drug users. “We are never as well-received as at festivals,” a transgender lady, Khusbhoo, told AFP.
Come to the fair!
At the Shah Jiwana temple, devotion gives way to amusement in the late afternoon. A juice seller sings a renowned Punjabi song: “Forget about your responsibilities for a while; let’s head to the fair instead.”
Thousands flock to the fields to watch traditional games like Kabaddi, a harsh contact sport in which opponents smack one other in the face, and tent pegging, a more graceful demonstration of horsemanship.
Fatima Noor, a 16-year-old stunt girl, prepares her motorcycle against the fairgrounds’ neon background. Defying gravity and social taboos, she rounds the “wall of death” to the crowd’s delight, hoping to earn some money for her family.
“These fairs must be held, because we do not have any other employment opportunities,” she stated. Hamid Ijaz, 18, enjoyed the celebrations despite having been disrupted for much of his youth.
“Because of how widespread hate and sectarianism are in our country, it’s crucial to organise events like these where people can come together and foster love,” he stated to AFP.
